K-9 Drive, Fact or Fiction?

I would be remiss if I didn’t start this article by giving credit where credit is due.  Everything I talk about in this article, I learned from Dr. Stephen A. Mackenzie, either through discussion with him or having read about it in his book Decoys and Aggression 2nd edition, which is available through Amazon.  I highly recommend reading this book. Dr. Mackenzie is a professor of animal science and a North American Police Work Dog Association, Master Trainer.  I believe that anyone with his credentials is worthy of my attention.
It didn’t take me long to realize that this is a very controversial topic.  Any time somebody offers a differing opinion, other than what has been accepted for decades, there is bound to be some uproar over it.
Each time I have attempted to discuss this topic with handlers or trainers, they look at me like I have three heads and quickly change the topic.  I had the same reaction when I first began discussing this with Doc, but I also had an open mind and realized that I was speaking with not only a veteran, well respected dog trainer, but also someone that holds a PhD in animal behavior.  With that in mind, I must warn you that I will attempt to explain this topic in layman terms and the way which I understand it.  I can, in no way, explain it in the depth and clarity that Dr. Mackenzie can.
The definition of “drive” within a dog is “a dog’s natural reaction to a stimulus”.  That’s a pretty good definition of the word.  So, let’s apply that definition to a human being’s reaction to a stimulus. Let’s say that I walk up to you, the reader, and tell you something like, “I’m going to punch you in the face.” How do you react to that?  This is a fight or flight scenario.  You have a limited number of choices of how to react to that statement.  You can run (flight), punch me (fight), or a third option is for you to try to talk me out of fighting.  Any of the three could be defined as your “drive” in that instance.  The term “drive” is an attempt to define an observable behavior. But, what causes that behavior?  Is there something going on within you, the reader, which influences your reaction to my statement?
Now, let’s apply that same scenario to a dog.  If I present a physical challenge to a dog, like a decoy would, the dog also has a limited number of choices as to how to react to my challenge. The dog

basically has the same choices that you, the reader, has. The dog can either choose to fight me, run away, or bite me out of fear or defense, which is completely different than what we have come to know as “fight drive.” Although dogs can’t talk, the dog in this case could also tell me he doesn’t want to fight by using certain body language, which is also covered in Doc’s book. Those are the possible observable behaviors in this scenario.  But, what is causing those behaviors?

We, as humans, readily accept, for the most part, the explanations of a psychiatrist and other mental health professionals, when they give very technical explanations as to why humans behave the way they do given certain circumstances.  They will talk about things like genetics, chemistry, early childhood experiences, and how/what that human learned in life.  We listen and say, “Ah, that makes perfect sense." If a psychiatrist were to explain a human behavior, no matter what that behavior may be, by simply saying something like, “Bob was just driven to punch Larry” we would ask, “What does that mean? What “drove” Bob to punch Larry?”. We would want to know what was going on in Bob’s mind.

What was Bob thinking? What was going on inside of Bob chemically?  What early experiences did Bob have in life that may have caused him to think hitting Larry was acceptable? What adult experiences did Bob have that may have taught him such behavior was acceptable? We wouldn’t accept the over simplified explanation  that Bob was just “driven” to punch Larry.  Why do we accept it for dog behavior?

Well, guess what?  A dog is not unlike a human when it comes to reacting to stimulus.  If I present myself as a physical challenge to a dog and he chooses to fight me, most handlers and trainers would say that is “fight drive.”  In the accepted dog training world, they would be correct. But, what would they say if we asked them to explain what causes that “fight drive”? Is there some mysterious force pushing the dog into fighting me? Or is there a more scientific explanation for what is happening within the dog’s mind and body when presented with a physical challenge?  Do dogs possess “drives” or do they present observable behaviors? What causes “drives”? Is it a mysterious force pushing the dog into something? Or is it a much more explainable behavior?

In the example given throughout this article, I am presenting myself as a physical challenge to a dog, which is an example of aggression. 

“Aggression, like many other behaviors, is affected by four major factors: genetics, chemistry, early experience, and adult learning.” (Mackenzie, 47).  For handlers and trainers to explain a behavior by simply calling it a “drive” is inadequate. If you’re still reading, I applaud you for having an open mind.  You have come to the same understanding that I have, which is that I don’t know everything there is to know about dogs and their training and I never will.  I have accepted the fact that there are much smarter people out there than me and they know things that I don’t.  When I come across such a person, I want to know what they know.  Again, when somebody with more knowledge and experience than I have, that is willing to share with me, begins speaking, I will choose to listen.  This is the point when I will reiterate that I fall well short of an adequate explanation of this topic. 

I highly recommend that you read Decoys and Aggression 2nd edition. (No, I am not getting a cut of sales).

So, let’s pretend, at least for a moment, that there is much more to a dog’s reaction to stimulus than just it’s “drive”.  A dog’s behavior or reaction is based upon four things.  The first is genetics. We, as handlers and trainers, have really nothing to do with the genetics of our dogs other than the selection process.  That really isn’t anything to do with genetics itself.  We are simply “testing” dogs in an attempt to find one with the proper genetics to be a working dog. So, the best thing we can do is to find a breeder/vendor that understands what we are looking for and that we can trust to provide us with that. We must also develop a solid testing process that will eliminate genetically weak dogs from the possibility of them becoming a part of our training group/LE agencies.  We simply test dogs and look for the dogs that displayed the strongest behaviors we are looking for.

The second thing that dictates a dog’s behavior is chemistry.  Again, read the book because I certainly am not a chemist and will do a poor job explaining this.  However, I do have a very rudimentary grasp on the concept, which I gained through reading the book and speaking with Doc.  So, here goes my attempt at explanation. Like humans, dogs experience a dopamine dump when undergoing something that is pleasurable.  They will repeat whatever behavior they think led to that pleasurable experience.  Adult learning also plays a role in this component of aggression, which is what we are talking about in this article, for the most part. 

An example is a working dog that must be neutered. If the dog has been rewarded in the past for showing aggressive behavior, neutering him will not make that aggression disappear. 

He has experienced pleasurable chemical reactions, has been rewarded for the behavior, and will repeat that behavior in the future even after having been neutered.  Again, we have basically nothing to do with the chemical reactions within a dog. 

Early experience is the next thing that affects a dog’s behavior.  Have you ever had somebody in the public come up to you and say something like, “I have a German Shepherd at home, but it would never bite anyone. Why is that?” Well, that particular animal may not have the genetics necessary to peak it’s curiosity enough so that it will try new things, in this case, biting a human. Another case maybe that the dog was never taught that it was OK to bite a human. As a matter of fact, early in life, they were probably punished for doing so.  So much of what we do is simply operant conditioning.  We reward a desirable behavior with a pleasurable experience for the dog and we punish bad behavior with a negative experience for the dog.  Early in a puppy’s life, from the age of about four weeks to twelve weeks, is known as the socialization period.  It is during this important period that we, as trainers, seek to imprint a puppy with the behaviors we desire in them as adult dogs. We expose them to new experiences that they will deal with as adults.  We teach them that it is acceptable to bite humans under certain conditions. We expose them to new environments. We socialize them with other people.

We should have the younger dogs watch older, more experienced dogs work, especially in bite work.  We do everything we can to expose the dog to new things. We mold and teach them what we want them to learn. We reward good behavior and we correct unwanted behaviors.  There are also all kinds of things chemically going on within the dog. But again, I’m no chemist or animal behaviorist, so read the book.

The last component that affects behavior is adult learning.  I will quote directly from Mackenzie here (52-53). “…when genetics encourage the dog to exhibit a certain behavior and that behavior feels normal due to proper imprinting and socialization, the last factor to contribute is the chemical change, if any, that occurs in the brain.

When the behavior results in the neurotransmitter dopamine being released into the part of the brain known as the mesolimbic reward pathway, it creates such a pleasant feeling that the dog feels rewarded and becomes motivated to repeat whatever behavior he thinks leads to that feeling.  If, on the other hand, the situation results in a release of the neurotransmitter acetylcholine into the part of the brain known as the “punishment circuit,” such an unpleasant feeling arises that the dog feels punished and will often try to avoid whatever he thinks led to that sensation. This will often stimulate what is known as the behavior inhibition system, which decreases the occurrence of behaviors that are undesirable in certain situations. This system enables the dog to conform productively to things such as the rules of the pack. …”If you do not start with a dog that has the correct genotype to show aggressive behaviors, you are at a severe disadvantage and should search for a dog with a better genotype. “

So, as you can see, we are a huge influence in the development of our dog’s behaviors.  We start with an adequate testing and selecting process wherein we observe candidates in a variety of settings and conditions.  It is up to us to have the knowledge necessary to interpret the behaviors of the dog in those given environments and conditions.  We then select the dogs that are displaying proper behaviors which were formed through good genetics and chemical make-up for the type of work we are selecting them for. Those solid genetics and chemical make-ups are brought out, first in early experience, which we may not have had anything to do with, and adult learning, which we will have everything to do with. The fact that we don’t have anything to do with the genetics and chemical make-up of the dog, is why it is important to select a breeder with a good reputation for producing the types of dogs that are fit for our type of work. 

Again, we may not have 

that socialization period between four and twelve weeks of age, which is why it is important to develop a solid relationship with good vendors and trainers that have a reputation of understanding the importance of early experience and that know how to properly develop a dog for our type of work. Again, we will have everything to do with adult learning. We must understand that everything we do with our dogs is an act in training.  We have to understand that desirable behaviors must be properly rewarded and that undesirable behaviors must be fairly punished (a topic for a future discussion, perhaps). If the dog has the proper genetics, chemistry, and early experience, we will be off to a good start for a successful working career.

There is much more to a dog’s reaction to stimulus than just it’s “drive”.  It is not simply a matter of verbiage. It is a matter of understanding that behavior, no matter what that behavior may be, is not made up of some mysterious force that is making the dog behave a certain way.  It is a matter of understanding that behavior goes much deeper that just “drive.” The behaviors we are able to observe are made up of many different factors that come together in something we can see and explain.  Don’t accept an oversimplified explanation.  You owe it to the dog, yourself, and your program to delve deeper into the issue and understand what you are seeing.  Every day is a good day to learn and a good day to train!  God bless!

Decoying for the Working K-9

Two styles of Decoying;

Decoying for Certification & Decoying for Real life (Street Training)

For certification, it's pretty simple, train for your routine (False start, Recall, Verbal out, Handler protection etc).  It doesn’t matter what certification standards you follow, many have the same aspects with small variances.  Whether people want to say it or not, certification training and decoying for certification is a rehearsed "dance" that the K9 becomes accustomed too.  The downfall of many handlers, is when the "dance" changes during the routine.  Different stress, accidental movement from decoys, the clinching/anxiety of the handler can all cause the K9 to react different than what is expected.
I train to let my K9 partner know, if they listen to my commands and respond correctly, I will be pleased with them and they will always get another chance to apprehend the decoy.  It may be in 30 seconds, 2 minutes or 2 days from now, but they will get another chance, but it is at "My" (the handlers) discretion, not the K9’s.
As the training continues for certification, and again, many people will only quietly agree, the K9 learns a routine and is rewarded when they  satisfactorily complete the commanded task.   Most handlers will train this way, but few will push the limits after the routine has been learned.
Once they have their routine performed correctly, many handlers will stop at this point.  But this is where K9 teams fail to certify.  They need to add in additional stressors and make it part of their routine. If they fail to do this, on certification day, the K9 will break a command and apprehend the decoy when they are not supposed to.
An example of this is when a verbal call off is made, the K9 is brought back to the handler and placed in a sit/down command.  The decoy, who has practiced this over and over with the K9 team, mistakenly reaches up and wipes the sweat from his eyes. At that moment, the routine has changed and the K9 breaks from his position and re bites.  That is one simple example of what usually happens.  
Another example is the location of where the handler stops to give the verbal release commands.  If they practice running up to the decoy, once their K9 has bitten the decoy, and stops at 20 feet away every time directly behind the K9, the K9 learns and expects the handler to "call them off" from that position.  In certification if the handler forgets the 20 foot distance mark, or the decoy spins the K9 around facing in the direction of the handler, they will more than likely not comply with the verbal call off.
Practice the routine for certification, then add variables (distance/ positioning/ coughing/ sound/ erratic movement etc..) from the handler, decoy or trainers standing around to make sure the K9 understands to listen to the handlers commands, no matter what variables they are faced with. Push the limits once they successfully complete each  task and praise the hell out of them when they do it correctly.
Street Decoying

Sam Edmonds of  Kennel VanMayhem

Once certification is complete, stop all routines!  Begin real life training.  This is by far the most important training you will ever do.  If you are not making the K9 feel that this is the real thing, then don’t expect any more when you have that life threatening call.  Many times on real life calls, K9’s have failed because they were never trained under stress.  This is where a great decoy is invaluable.
The most important part of a decoy is their TIMING.
The decoy has to “mark" the correct behavior of each individual K9 and their timing has to be perfect.
They need to replicate real life when they can, push the limits to strengthen them and back off of pressure when they are close to shutting a K9 down.  Once a K9 has faced and worked with this type of decoy (like Sam Edmonds- Kennel VanMayhem) when they confront real life encounters, they are on a different level, ready for anything.
Depending on the situational training we are performing, sometimes we can get away from an advanced decoy and use a decoy for the simple purpose of "Meat in a bag". To explain,  I will use static decoys or non animated decoys that will not respond at all to an apprehension by a K9.  They are not to move whatsoever.  The K9 is commanded to apprehend and once they are on the decoy, the handler commands the K9 to hold the decoy. Many times if handlers have not practiced this exercise, the K9 will hold for a few seconds, then let go and try to re bite to make the decoy come alive.  This has happened to me in real life on the street when a suspect on PCP (or other unknown substances) felt no pain and didn't move at all during the apprehension.  This can be confusing for a K9 if they have not experienced it. A more advanced decoy is what I favor in training to build up the "punch in" or deep bite/pain compliance apprehension.
Avoid teaching or allowing "Escape Bites'.   An escape bite is a bite where a K9 grips a decoy on an extremity  (lower leg, lower arm) and begins pulling and tugging.  

Many times they will only have material from the bite suit or sleeve and continue pulling away.   If the decoy "Marks" this behavior by reacting, this will continue to teach the K9 that this bite is acceptable.  Most K9's like this type of bite, because they can easily get away if the decoy becomes aggressive towards them.  This is very obvious behavior to look for.  If a K9 has a bite on the wrist area and the K9 is pulling, have the decoy rush towards the K9, the K9 will seem to retreat, keep pulling and moving away form the decoy while keeping the farthest distance from the decoy they can. We want to train the opposite, the K9 will stop the  aggression of the decoy if he punches into the decoy and bites with pressure.   

With the correct decoy and timing, the K9 learns if they punch in, similar to a Toe to Toe flat footed boxer, they get rewarded by the pain/pressure they give to the decoy, the decoys 'mark" of the  punch in, and the praise simultaneously  received from the handler.   Repeated enough times, this eliminates the shallow, tearing clothing bites.   And even though people think a K9 that bites clothing is less of a liability for their department than a deep biting K9, well.. they are simply wrong! A shallow biting K9 usually re-bites in several different places, instead of one location, the bites are shallow and in multiple locations and they usually do more damage with tearing and ripping than puncturing from a solid deep bite.   A deep full pressure pain compliance bite usually stays in one location and makes punctures.  It also avoids the K9 wanting to fall back into an "escape bite" where they are satisfied playing "tug of war" with a suspects clothing. During that tug of war, there is absolute And in situations where a real life suspect is fighting with no fear of a K9, the escape biting K9 will be seen running around the suspect barely engaging.  Many times on and off, re biting and circling a suspect. This is EXTREMELY dangerous to the handler and back up officers.   

Muzzle fighting

The same philosophy exists with Muzzle training.  Mark their correct behavior. When the K9 initiates a punch in with the muzzle,  the decoy must react as if  they are getting shocked at the point where the muzzle strikes them.  I use a long line and give them enough slack to strike the decoy, but immediately after the strike, I add back pressure to the long line and make them "sled dog" (pulling hard, back into the decoy for an additional strike).  The K9 will learn quickly that once they punch in, they will continue to punch in causing reaction and animation from the decoy.  The mistake I see many handlers make is they leave slack in the line and the K9 runs around openly, sometimes punching in on the decoy but then running around the decoy and not engaging.   Back pressure will help keep the target acquisition, the K9 focused and teach them to drive into the bite. Last thing to remember, While the decoy is working their magic, join the fight with your K9. 

Make sure they know who is on their side during an apprehension.  Backup officers will tackle a suspect with your K9 during an arrest when they have tunnel vision.  Get your K9 accustomed to others approaching during handcuffing etc.  The deep gripping/pain compliance apprehension is something all Law Enforcement should work to have with their K9 partner.  

Make sure you take care of your decoys!  Without them, you would only have a great Article Search/Evidence Recovery K9.  

The Battle of the Breeds

Who is your K9 Partner and Do you know why?

The world around us is full of stereotypes and the ongoing battle of “My breed of choice is better than your Breed of choice”. Unfortunately, this mentality has slowly found its way into the working dog world, creating The Battle of  the Breeds. The American Kennel Club currently registers 189 dog breeds which is just a drop in the “Breed Bucket” when compared to the United Kennel Club which is an international registry that currently recognizes over 300 separate dog breeds. When it comes to choosing our K9 partner(s) we need to be honest with ourselves and think about a few things before looking at dogs: What is going to be the Dog’s main area of expertise (Detection/Dual Purpose, Tracking, Search and Rescue...etc), The area in which you work, Your level of knowledge and expertise in dog handling in your profession (If this is going to be your first K9 partner an imported Belgian Malinois or extreme working line German Shepherd might not be for you.) “ My personal experience has taught me there is no such thing as the Best working Dog Breed! ” says Retired U.S Naval Chief Master At Arms/Kennel Master Ron Barton. “ Yes, there are basic ‘breed specific’ characteristics to go by when determining which breed you want for your specific mission, but there is always an exception to the rule. Not every single pure bred German Shephard or Belgian Malinois is going to be suited for Law Enforcement or Military work. For example: If  you come from a long line of  firefighters, it does not  mean that  you  have got  what  it takes to be one yourself!  We, of course can not for get about the cross breeds or mutts! Pedigree is important in certain aspects, but for me what’s important is what’s in the dog. Not what he / she is.” Barton has trained hundreds of dogs during his military career and has guarded some of the Nation's highest ranking officials with the help of his K9 partners. “ I, like most people, do have my favorite breed; the German Shepherd Dog, but it is my personal preference. However, I will not dismiss a dog’s possibility just because of its breed or pedigree (or lack of ). Many have fallen in to “ the working dog of  the era ” fad and will only use a specific breed with a particular line and/or pedigree, no matter how good your argument is. I have always held true to the saying, 'It’s not the dog in the fight, it’s the fight in the dog!' ” Barton has trained, handled and used on the real world streets several different types of dogs; he was candid enough to share stories about some of his most unusual K9 Partners. 

“ While in Guam we had one of  the best DDD (Drug Detection Dog) it was a Cairn Terrier. When he found the odor, he would work it back to its source and sit. He was so sure that you could pull him around on a slick surface while he maintained his ‘alert’. He would not break that sit response, until he got his reward. He was good for small ships, subs, and other restrictive areas. Yet most departments (the military included ) prefer a dual purpose dog. This way you get the detection and the patrol side in one dog, unfortunately small dogs are not very intimidating as a patrol dog. One story that defines the guide lines of “ breed abilities and stereo types ", is while I was stationed in Puerto Rico we were able to acquire an FAA (Federal Aviation Administration) wash out and bring her in to the U.S. Navy for an EDD (Explosive Detection Dog) . 

One of the 'breed stereotypes' alot of people go by is that ‘if  you are going to have just a straight detector dog, use a hunting breed. They have better noses, this why they are used as hunting dogs.' While I do not disagree with this, it is not a hard fast rule. This particular dog was a German Shorthair Pointer with an out standing nose. Ginger was washed out of FAA, because they could not get her to go against her instinctual genetics, and ignore the birds. When she found the source of the odor she would respond with her infamous 'bird dog point' instead of the passive sit response that was required. We worked diligently with her and soon enough desensitized her to the distraction of the birds. Now when she would get distracted by the birds, her handler could get her to refocus back on her task. And as far as the infamous 'bird dog point', we got with our MWD (military working dog) LEPS Team (Law Enforcement Physical Security, K9 team certifying officials) and certified her as an EDD. Her final response was the infamous 'bird dog point'. We had an excess of EDD’s and LEPS had a slot on the west coast where her area of expertise was needed. Ginger went on to be come the #1 EDD on the west coast for the U.S. Navy.” Barton had more than 21 years handling and training dogs in the U.S Navy, before he retired and started his 13+ year career as a Law Enforcement K9 Trainer and Handler. “ My personal favorite is the German Shepherd. They are in general an intelligent breed, and one of the most versatile in the irability to be trained for a wide variety of jobs. Although, Iam not closed minded to the notion that German Shepherds are the best, and/or only breed for the job. One of my very favorite past K9 partners was a solid black Czech Shepherd, named Bond. He was sleek, beautiful, even tempered with a built in switch to go back and forth between his work mode and off duty mode with just a command. He was a DDD / PD and the perfect partner. 

My current partner in training is to be a DDD/PD, a male Black Russian

Terrier/Belgian Malinois; Gabriel is confident with a great stable temperament, observant, energetic and courageous, only to top it all off with a great nose. He is the first of this type of cross for me and I am enjoying what both breeds brought to the table for this working combination." Barton also points out that Russia developed the Black Russian Terrier breed for use as military/working dogs in the 1940’s. During his time in the U.S Military Barton worked and studied with many world renowned animal behaviorists and psychologists. “ If you were to ask what breed is the best for tracking/ trailing, most thoughts would turn to the breed with the most notorious nose, and of course I am speaking of the Bloodhound! They do, as a general rule, have the best ‘nose’. However that does not mean they all do. I was privy to an off the books experiment just for K9 fun. A Bloodhound competed against a German Shepherd in a tracking exercise. Needless to say the German Shepherd put that particular Bloodhound to shame. His tracking pace was also quite a bit quicker. In the same respect I have also seen German Shepherds that could not smell a pound of hamburger at nose level if they walked right past it.” Barton also tells us that one of the first recorded attempts to use dogs to aid Law Enforcement in the apprehension of a criminal was made in 1869 by the Commissioner of the Metropolitan Police of London, Sir Charles Warren. The Commissioner had repeatedly failed at identifying and locating the legendary serial killer “Jack the Ripper”, he had even been denounced for not using bloodhounds to track the notorious killer. The commissioner quickly acquired two bloodhounds that had proven performance of simple tracking from the scene of another killer’s crimes to his location. However, the results were far from satisfactory for the Commissioner, with one of the hounds biting him and both dogs later running off, requiring a Law Enforcement area search to find them. Barton uses this story to teach people that choosing our K9 partner should be a lengthy process. Testing and evaluating the dog properly should be the first priority, along with making sure YOU will be able to work TOGETHER as a TEAM. " Choose the right dog for the job and never set your 4 legged partner up for failure. Continually and proficiently train and never stop learning. That is how you will be successful on the real streets." - Ron Barton

Progressive Exposure

"The more you challenge your K9, the better they will be when you need it the most."- Paul Ludwig

Finding the correct balance and maintaining it while you expose the K9 to new environmentals is KEY to the success and performance of your K9 Partner. Too many trainers and handlers go from A to Z too quickly, while others begin way below what their K9's can handle. While training and exposing your K9 to new environmental challenges, focus on the K9's success, not tactics, until they establish their confidence. Always consider your venues: where you work and the surrounding agencies you may get called to assist. Think about noises and ultimate hiding places that are prominent in those areas; subway stations, airports, escalators, elevators, drainage tunnels, sewers...etc. If you had to find a suspect bedded down near a train track and your
K9 never has been exposed to a passing locomotive you may be in for a sad surprise. Progressively expose, by taking small steps during exercises and training, to build their confidence. For instance, if you want to expose your K9 to metal grate stairs, work on that first. Let them get the exposure and climb a few times before you set up a barricade of boxes to have them push through or start firing a gun as they try to ascend the stairs. Work on multiple exposures ONLY AFTER they have had gunfire, stairs, and barricades. Not all at the same time when they first are sent out. Push the limits of what they can handle, then back off and keep it positive .

Water: I do not know of many places where water exposure will not happen. Please do not misunderstand me, I Do Not condone sending a K9 into water to have them drowned by a suspect.

But when you have seen in person, a K9 in pursuit of a suspect that crosses a creek, then the K9 stops dead in his tracks at the edge of the creek (which is less then a foot deep) and the suspect runs away never to be caught, it is infuriating. While the officer scratches their head and thinks, "What in the world just happened?", the suspect is headed to the next county. Build on their exposure of water so that if it ever happens, the K9 will not fail.
Gunfire: Train the K9 to be gunfire Neutral . NOT to go after gunfire, but develop target acquisition during gun fire. Again, incremental steps to success. Start at a distance and with a whip/ .209 primer/ starter pistol/ 38 rounds, while having the handler working on obedience. Move in closer as you fire. If the K9 reacts negatively to the gunfire, correct the behavior by giving them the command to "Heel". Keep them moving and make sure you praise them when they are following your command and start realizing that gunfire is just another noise. Short sessions, only for a few minutes at a time. After a few sessions, you will see the difference.
Muzzle Work: Not just muzzling when its Vet visit time or muzzle fighting time. Muzzle Neutral is what you want. I suggest putting the muzzle on for any reason, for a few minutes at a time, obedience, riding in the car for short periods, agility, etc... Once the K9 cares less and less about the muzzle, then you can progress into advanced training. The "Z" part of this training is when my K9s, while wearing a muzzle, will strike on command a decoy wearing nothing but his undergarments and continue punching in on the decoy until commanded otherwise. They will apprehend with out the help of equipment drawing them in. We have found that this is also a fantastic way to teach the beginnings of a verbal out command.
Stressors / Distractions: Train under stress, have officers yell commands like they would during an arrest, have them run up and go hands on, onto the decoy while the K9 is engaged. (Slowly bring in

the officers to crowd the K9 while on the decoy, remember the A-Z applies to everything). Judge the comfort of the K9 by their "Floating Eyes". If they are on an apprehension on a decoy, and as the handler and other officers approach, if the K9 is moving his rear away from approaching units, and you can see the K9's eyes floating around and looking at everyone, back off a little until you see the K 9 relax. Move officers in and out little by little. Slowly put hands on and bump the K9 and slap hands on the decoy until the K9 realizes that the back ups are part of "Their Team". After a few sessions, the K9 will become more relaxed and there will be less of a chance of a transfer bite onto another part of the decoy, or back up officer. Add specific details to your training, smoke to a car jacking bail out scenario, let the dog experience it like it is really happening. Many times during small apartment searches, a total ruckus is going on in the neighboring apartments, which can break the attention and distract your K9. Make sure to add distractions such as a crying baby, barking dogs, people yelling and moving around. Train for article searches in the dog park where the dogs' elimination area is, so your K9 gets used to searching for evidence where there are tons of scent and keep them on task. I have found with what I have mentioned above, if you train this way, and expose your partner progressively to as much as possible, you will have a higher success rate in the REAL world.

This article was written Exclusively for the K9 Chronicle 

by U.S.P .C.A Certified K9 Trainer, PaulLudwig

About the Author:

Paul Ludwig is not just another "Dog Trainer". He is a District of Columbia Council of Governments K9 SWAT integration Trainer, Fairfax County Virginia. In 2011 Paul received the Meritorious Service award for the K9 apprehension of a suspect wanted for Assault on a Police Officer in which the suspect disarmed the officer of his weapon and was in possession of two additional handguns. Paul Ludwig is a second generation Law Enforcement Officer that embarked on a mission to make the streets of the Washington D.C Metropolitan area safer and his dedication could not go unnoticed, Paul was honored with the Meritorious Service Awards in 1991, 1993, 1994, 1999, 2003, 2005 and 2011 Paul has also received commendations from the A.T.F. for aiding in the recovery of dozens of stolen handguns after a local  gun store burglary. The District of Columbia’s U.S. Attorney’s Office awarded Paul with commendation for apprehending three Attempted Murder / serial sexual assault suspects. Paul and his K9 Partner received commendations from Prince Georges County Police Department for utilizing his patrol canine to locate / recover a handgun which was used in the attempted murder of a Prince Georges County Police Officer. Paul has since retired after 25 years as

a Law Enforcement Officer and now teaches K9 handlers how to prepare themselves and their dog for the REAL Streets of America. You can visit: www.IrondogK9.com to read more about Paul Ludwig and his K9 Partners. Pick up a copy of Paul's video "K9 Guardians" and find out how the night of December 9th, 1999 changed his life and the way he trains K9s forever.

Top Mistakes K9 Handlers Make

When considering the mistakes we as handlers/trainers make, I immediately thought of handling/training skills, which are obviously important to our success in the field.  I will address some of the mistakes that I make myself and that I see other handlers make.  However, there are mistakes made off the training field and streets that adversely affect our training and street skills.  These mistakes must be addressed first if we are to succeed in training and real world applications.

Officer Walthall & Takoa

The first mistake is something that happens in every police department/agency I have ever spoken to about their K-9 program.  Handlers make a mistake when they believe that their command staff and peers think of them as the elite unit they truly are.  In other words, you aren’t appreciated for what you bring to the table, nor will you ever be. That is a fact that won’t ever change.  Learn to function effectively within that world.  I have never seen a K-9 program that was successful in which the handlers, trainers, K-9 supervisors didn’t have to fight tooth and nail for everything they had.  Those that are not willing to do that, will not be successful.  They may continue to exist, but they will never see true success.  That is the mistake/problem.  How do we solve it?

The answer to that question somewhat depends on your personality type.  I have dealt with this problem since I started handling my first dog 17 years ago. My personality is kind of, “Here it is, deal with it.”  I basically told them the way things needed to be if they wanted to succeed. They may not have liked that approach, but I backed up what I said with facts. Whether you choose to be forceful or more polite doesn’t matter.  What matters is you do your research before making your approach to staff about your needs.  Educate yourself. Then educate them.  Understand that when you lay things out there, you must be willing to live up to that standard.  The work falls upon you.  I will address this topic throughout the rest of this article.

In my experience, and that of handlers I have spoken with, the top things K-9 handlers have to fight for is training time.  Again, the key is to educate yourself and then educate those that dictate the time you get to train.  The first thing you must understand is that the overwhelming majority of staff members have never been K-9 handlers.  Their thought process is something like, “SWAT only trains once a month.” They believe SWAT is an elite unit within the department and they may be. What they are failing to understand is the fact that K-9 behavior is dictated by four things; genetics, chemistry, early experience, and adult learning (Mackenzie 2015) (not these mysterious things we call “drives”, but that is a whole other topic).  Once we have a somewhat mature dog that we can start training, we really can’t do much about the first three.  Our selection process, if done correctly, will have taken care of those things. But, we can have a huge impact on the last thing, adult learning.  That means training.  Dogs learn by repetition and reinforcement, whether positive or negative.  All of that means we must have the time to repeat exercises over and over again, just like SWAT. But things are different with people than they are with dogs, the learning process is much different, as you know. The problem is “they” don’t know that or understand it.  It is up to you to educate “them” on the subject.  Obviously, SWAT members can be shown a new exercise or tactic once or twice and they “get” the general concept.  Dogs don’t learn that way.  They must be shown something again and again and again. The best example is aggression.  You all understand that I can’t just let my young dog watch a veteran dog release on command once or twice then expect him to do the same.  Building a good, dependable “out” is a long, sometimes difficult, process.  You must educate your staff on such things.  My best advice on training time, and many other K-9 topics, is to become a member of Terry Fleck’s website.  Terry is considered one of the foremost legal experts on K-9 matters.  I don’t work for Terry or get any “kickbacks” from him, but I am a member of his informational website and I have found it to be very helpful for many situations.  More information on that can be found at k9fleck.org.

Remember though, I said earlier that once you lay out the standard for training time, which is a minimum of 16 hours per month industry wide, you have to live up to that standard.  It is all too common to see K-9 handlers and training groups that become lazy and don’t use their training time for what it is intended, training.  We have a tendency to unconsciously abuse our training time. We take 1 ½ hours for lunch, eating at sit down restaurants and shooting the breeze long after the meal is over. We take entirely too long between exercises.  We tend to cut-out early because our patrol teams aren’t missing us anyway.  All of these things are pitfalls that must be avoided at all costs.  Whether you think so or not, word will eventually get back to staff that K-9 training time isn’t being used for training time.  Quickly training time will be cut and you may find some lieutenant that doesn’t know anything about dogs dictating when you can and can’t train.  Not a good place to be, so don’t allow yourself to be put there.  Train, train, train.  All that other stuff can wait for another time.  Besides, what is more fun than dog training?

Our next topic also involves training.  Are you seeing a trend yet?  Once we get staff to agree to a proper amount of training time, we start training more and everything is great.  But soon, we fall prey to our habits and our way of training.  We never take the time to reach out to other agencies and groups that also have K-9s and training going on.  That severely limits our knowledge base.  I have spent 17 years immersed in “dog”.  About 10 years ago I began the greatest professional journey I have ever been on.  I began what was basically a 7 year apprenticeship to become a certified trainer then master trainer through the North American Police Work Dog Association (NAPWDA).  It was shortly into that process that I realized just how much I had learned in the past 10 years and just how much I still had to learn.  After making MT, I realize that the learning should never and will never stop.  If you’re only training within a set group of handlers/trainers week in and week out, you are cheating yourself, your dog, your department, the citizens you serve, and your fellow officers. If you are only hearing from one trainer, you’re not learning everything you should be learning.  No matter how good your trainer is, no one person can possibly know everything about K-9 training.  That isn’t a jab to them.  It’s just a fact. Reach out to other handlers, trainers, and groups.  I used to believe that this problem had everything to do with egos.  I have come to realize that it does, but for different reasons that I first thought.  I used to believe that handlers and trainers looked up others as inferior and they didn’t want to take the time to train with people that didn’t meet their standards, which is nonsense.  If you’re not making others better then you’re wasting your time and you don’t understand why we are in this business to begin with.  But, that’s not really the issue, in most cases.  The real reason “we” don’t want to reach out is because we don’t want others to see the issues we have.  Get over it!  Everyone that handles a dog has issues.  No team is perfect.  You won’t get any better by only training within a set group.

I’ll move off my soapbox now and get into some mechanical things I see handlers and trainers doing that could be improved.  The first two things kind of go hand-in-hand.  Really they open up an entire plethora of problem areas.  Lead control and presentation are something I see as a weakness in a good number of handlers.  Lead control is much more difficult than the average person realizes.  We watch veteran handlers move with their dogs, whether doing a narcotic/explosive search, tracking, or obedience, and it seems like it is an effortless endeavor, if they have spent the necessary time training.  The problem is many handlers don’t.  It seems to me that handlers, for whatever reason, work on lead in basic handler’s school until they start to learn the skill and their dogs begin to “get” their job.  Then handlers cut the dogs off lead and rarely train or deploy on lead again, only doing it when safety is a concern.  This is probably because their trainers have told them again and again to cut the dog off lead and “get out of its way.”  I get that concept and agree with it, to an extent.  The problem arises when handlers must leash their dogs and they haven’t trained for it since the beginning of handler’s school.  At that point, they look like a monkey humping a football.  We all have experienced times when our leads get tangled in the dog’s legs, around their heads, and in the brush we’re tracking through.  Many times, even the most experience handler can’t help getting tangled up, but training on lead sure does improve your chances of not distracting our dogs by stopping to untangle them.

The next issue stems from not training on lead.  We finish basic handler’s school.  Our dogs have a good grasp on what we expect from them during a search, so we cut them off lead and let them do their thing.  The problem with that is that many handlers step away and expect their dogs to complete the search on their own.  Working dogs have to have independence.  We don’t want them to depend on us for everything.  However, we can take that too far and expect them to do all the work. One of my mentor’s, NAPWDA MT Bill Faus, loves to proclaim, “You’re a team.  Your job is to present.  Your dog’s job is to sniff and alert.  You get him in the area.  He tells you where it is.”  Bill is 100% correct!  As much as I love training dogs, not everything is training.  We train for real world deployments. We can’t control everything in the real world like we can in training, which is a somewhat “sterile” environment. Most of the time, in training, we know where the training aid is, whether it’s narcotics, cadaver, explosive, etc.  We obviously don’t know that in the real world.  We can’t control our environments, air currents, amount of aids, or other outside stimulus.  In the real world, our dogs may be searching great, but they aren’t getting into odor.  Let them free search for a few moments then step in and uphold your end of the arrangement.  I know

Officer Walthall & Ziva

what many of you tracking/trailing handlers are thinking.  You’re thinking something like, “I don’t have to present to my dog. It searches on its own.”  Well, that’s true, to a certain extent.  Once you have presented the scent article to your dog, it’s up to them to find the trail/track leading away from that article.  But, your end of the partnership still remains.  You cannot just hold on and follow along.  Your job is to watch and read your dog. When your dog is no longer displaying tracking/trailing behaviors, it is up to you to read that and act upon it by taking the dog back to the last place it was showing “in odor” behavior and present that area to it again.  So, your role in this partnership remains extremely important. 

This brings us to our next topic, which is related to lead control and presentation.  We’re back at handler’s school and everything is going great.  Our trainer is doing a great job teaching lead control, presentation, and rewarding.  We leave handler’s school and hit the streets.  We start training in our group (hopefully not alone), the world is ours. Then our enemy, apathy, starts to creep into our training.  Pretty soon, we stop doing anything on lead, ever. Then we stop presenting areas for our dogs to search, next, when our dog does find something and alerts, we walk-up to them and hand them their reward, pat them, say “good boy” in the most pathetic tone possible and then move on to the next training search.  After a while, we notice that our dog’s scratch or sit and stare has diminished to a non-existent state.  Even worse, the dog stops wanting to search or work at all.  We, being the intelligent humans we are, blame the dog and tell everyone he has gotten lazy and doesn’t want to work anymore.  We offer every reason and excuse we can think of for our dog’s poor performance, except the truth.  The truth is we, the handler, are the problem.  It isn’t our dogs that have gotten lazy and don’t want to work anymore.  It’s us!  We stop training lead control, we start cutting the dog off lead all of the time, we stop presenting, we stop interacting and partnering with our dogs, we stop doing primary rewards, if we ever did.  Basically, we crapped out on our dogs. But, we don’t want to admit that to ourselves or anyone else.

One of the things we are looking for when selecting a dog is a strong hunting behavior. We want dogs that will hunt until they find their prey or drop from exhaustion trying to find it, only to later train the dog that their prey really isn’t hiding in the woods, the school locker, the suspect’s car, or the luggage on the bus.  It’s really in our pocket, the same pocket day in and day out.  Once the dog gets in odor, all we expect is for him to give some indication, and we walk up to him, take the prey out of our pocket, and hand it to him.  What I’m saying is, train the dog naturally.  When a wolf is out hunting for food for his pack, he watches the rabbit run into a thicket and he starts digging through the brush to get to the rabbit.  The pack leader doesn’t show up and hand him another rabbit.  That isn’t the way it works.  The wolf digs through the brush until the rabbit has no choice but to pop out and attempt escape or he sits and stares at the thicket waiting for the rabbit to pop out again.  When he reaches the rabbit or it pops out and runs, the wolf attacks and kills the rabbit.  Our dog training should be no different.  Put the reward with the source.  Proof the dog from the reward by hiding rewards without source.  If the dog indicates on the reward without odor, give a verbal correction and move on.  When the dog alerts on the reward with odor, make it a game of sit and stare (focus) on the source.  When the dog’s focus is on the source and is intense, whether sitting and staring or scratching, remove the barrier and pop the reward from source just like that rabbit in the thicket.  I promise that you will see your dog’s hunt and focus intensify like never before.

I see handlers try all kinds of things to avoid allowing their dogs see them giving the dog their reward.  They contort their bodies, move all over the room, and have a second person throw the reward.  Dogs aren’t stupid.  It didn’t take them along to figure out that you were taking their reward from your pocket and that you were the one clumsily throwing it, hoping they wouldn’t see you.  Dogs have a much wider peripheral range than humans.  They see you.  So, we give the toy to another person to throw.  It isn’t long before the dog sits and stares at the second person. So, we give it to a third person and so on.  Before long we have to have five people at our training sessions and the dog is staring at every one of them when it gets into odor.  Cut all of that stuff out and start training with primary rewards.  You don’t have to do it all of the time, but it should be the rule and not the exception.

Voice tone is extremely important.  Most of the handlers I’m around are cops, male cops.  That means they’re tough.  The only emotion they ever express is the joy when telling a story about thumping some mope that needed it.  Their eyes light up and their veins pop out when relating one of these stories.  Don’t get me wrong.  I’m a male cop.  I have my own stories and I love telling them.  But, I’m not afraid to get excited around my dog either.  When my dog accomplishes a task we have spent years training for, I don’t say, “good boy” like a grumpy, old, tough cop.  I yell, “GOOD BOY!” in the most little girl like voice I can muster.  Then I dance around like I just hit the Powerball. My dog just lived up to his end of the partnership.  He just tracked and apprehended the burglar.  He just found the turd that broke into a house and ran.  He just found the pound of weed, or the ¼ gram baggy.  I don’t care what it was.  I asked him to do something we have spent countless hours training on and he nailed it.  I’m not going to say, “good boy” in a gruff tone and move on.  I may as well punch him in the face.  Get happy! Make a fool out of yourself.  Look like an idiot.  Who cares?  If you’re as tough as you want everyone to think you are, you won’t care what they think of your behavior anyway.  I have heard some trainers say that pack leaders in the wild wouldn’t act that way. They say it is childish and weak of a pack leader to display such behavior.  All I know is my dog loves it.  He gets excited.  When I do it, he plays along and is ready to repeat the behavior he thinks led to this fun game.  So, I’ll stick to it.

The last topic I’ll talk about is just a few general things we do in training.  A lot of the times, training is just plain and generic.  We have stuff going on in life.  We are busy.  We get to training and we might be exhausted. We might have any number of issues we are dealing with outside of dog training.  Don’t get me started on interdepartmental politics within police work.  That’s another topic altogether.  Anyway, for whatever reason, sometimes we just don’t feel like doing much.  We have to avoid that feeling.  We are training for real world deployments.  That means we must actually train for real world deployments.  We can’t just train for certification and expect to succeed on the street.  NAPWDA, and any other reputable certifying body, will readily admit that their certification standards are minimum standards.  The hope is that K-9 teams will meet minimum standard as a start, then they will only get better from there.  So, we have to do more scenario training.  It really isn’t difficult.  It takes more effort than simply putting out a few aids, running a short track, eating a two hour lunch, doing O.B. and going home.  But, that isn’t real world training. 

One of my constant problems as the trainer for my group is that not every dog and handler are at the same level.  That’s an issue for every training group. I’m guilty of thinking that I need to bring this dog up or that handler up before we can all train with scenarios.  That’s really just me being lazy and making excuses.  The truth is, scenarios can be adjusted for the skill level of each dog and handler.  There really are no good excuses for not taking our training to the next level, no matter what level you’re currently at, unless you’re one of those that can’t get any better.  I’ve met a few of those guys.  I’m not worthy. 

Train in scenario mode.  Throw whatever you can think of at your training group and let them do the same to you, within reason.  With that comes getting away from sleeves all of the time.  All we’re doing is training our dogs to only engage arms.  We have all seen or heard about the dog that will run along beside a real suspect and not bite him if he raises his arms high.  That isn’t the dogs fault.  He has been praised for that over and over again if you’re only using sleeves.  It’s your fault.  Sleeves are Ok if that’s all you have or you’re working a young, inexperienced dog, or working a problem that requires it.  Otherwise, man-up and put on a suit.  Teach the dog that it is ok to bite anywhere on the body.  If you don’t have a good decoy, find one, or become one yourself and teach others.  With that in mind, if you think a good decoy is that guy who is tough and wants to prove it by “working” dogs, you couldn’t be more wrong.  That type of “decoy” needs to find some other way to prove what a bad dude he is.  Decoying is about helping the dog become better and stronger, not proving how tough you are.  If you are looking for a good source on decoying, I suggest the book I referenced earlier in this article, “K9 Decoys and Aggression” by Stephen A. Mackenzie. 

It all comes down to us. WE are responsible for our training. WE are responsible for our mistakes.  WE are responsible for our improvement.  “If it is to be, it’s up to me.”  You can be as good as you want to be. Don’t be afraid to ask for help. Any handler/trainer worth anything will tell you that we all have issues to work on and they will help you work on yours.  TRAIN FOR LIFE! Yours may depend on it…

(This article was written Exclusively for The K9 Chronicle by N.A.P.W.D.A Master Trainer, Travis Walthall.)

Check The K9 Chronicle Event Schedule to find Seminars and Decoy Camps hosted by Travis Walthall.

Mr. Yuck says "NO" to these foods for your Dog

Dangerous Foods for Dogs

Who can resist those big brown eyes and cute doggie grin? Can a little reward from the table really hurt your dog? Well, that depends on what it is and what's in it. A chip with guacamole can cause your dog some real problems. In fact, there's a lot of "people food" your dog should never eat. And, it's not just because of weight. Some foods are downright dangerous for them -- and some of these common foods may surprise you.
 Avocado
No matter how good you think the guacamole is, you shouldn't give it to your dog. Avocados contain a substance called persin. It's harmless for humans who aren't allergic. But large amounts might be toxic to dogs. If you happen to be growing avocados at home, keep your dog away from the plants. Persin is in the leaves, seed, and bark, as well as in the fruit.
 Alcohol
Beer, liquor, wine, foods containing alcohol -- none of it's good. That's because alcohol has the same effect on a dog's liver and brain that it has on humans. But it takes far less to do its damage. Just a little can cause vomiting, diarrhea, central nervous system depression, problems with coordination, difficulty breathing, coma, even death. And the smaller the dog, the greater the effect.
Onions and Garlic
Onions and garlic in all forms -- powdered, raw, cooked, or dehydrated -- can destroy a dog's red blood cells, leading to anemia. That can happen even with the onion powder found in some baby food. An occasional small dose is probably OK. But eating a large quantity just once or eating smaller amounts regularly can cause poisoning. Symptoms of anemia include weakness, vomiting, little interest in food, dullness, and breathlessness.
Coffee, Tea, and Other Caffeine
Caffeine in large enough quantities can be fatal. And there is no antidote. Symptoms of caffeine poisoning include restlessness, rapid breathing, heart palpitations, muscle tremors, and fits. In addition to tea and coffee -- including beans and grounds -- caffeine can be found in cocoa, chocolate, colas, and stimulant drinks such as Red Bull. It's also in some cold medicines and pain killers.
Grapes and Raisins
Grapes and raisins have often been used as treats for dogs. But it's not a good idea. Although it isn't clear why, grapes and raisins can cause kidney failure. And just a small amount can make a dog ill. Repeated vomiting is an early sign. Within a day, she'll become lethargic and depressed. The best prevention is to keep grapes and raisins off counters and other places your dog can reach.
Milk and Other Dairy Products
On a hot day, it may be tempting to share your ice cream cone with your dog. But if he could, he'd thank you for not doing so. Milk and milk-based products can cause diarrhea and other digestive upset, as well as set up food allergies (which often show up as itchiness).  
Macadamia Nuts
Dogs shouldn't eat macadamia nuts or foods with them because they can be fatal. As few as six raw or roasted macadamias can make them ill. Symptoms of poisoning include muscle tremors, weakness or paralysis of the hindquarters, vomiting, elevated body temperature, and rapid heart rate. Eating chocolate with the nuts will make symptoms worse, possibly leading to death.    
Candy and Gum
Candy, gum, toothpaste, baked goods, and some diet foods are sweetened with xylitol. It can cause more insulin to circulate through your dog's body. That can cause his blood sugar to drop and can also cause liver failure. Initial symptoms include vomiting, lethargy, and loss of coordination. Eventually, he may have seizures. Liver failure can occur within just a few days.    
 Chocolate
Most people know that chocolate is bad for dogs. The toxic part is theobromine. It's in all kinds of chocolate, even white. The most dangerous kinds, though, are dark chocolate, chocolate mulch, and unsweetened baking chocolate. Eating it, even just licking the icing bowl, can cause a dog to vomit, have diarrhea, and be excessively thirsty. It can also cause abnormal heart rhythm, tremors, seizures, and death.      
 Fat Trimmings and Bones
Table scraps often contain meat fat that a human didn't eat as well as bones. Both are dangerous for dogs. Fat trimmed from meat, both cooked and uncooked, can cause pancreatitis. And, although it seems natural to give a dog a bone, he can choke on it. Bones can also splinter and cause an obstruction or lacerations of your dog's digestive system. It's best to just forget about the doggie bag.    Persimmons, Peaches, and Plums
The problem with these fruits is the seeds or pits. The seeds from persimmons can cause inflammation of the small intestine in dogs. They can also cause intestinal obstruction. Obstruction is also a possibility if a dog eats the pit from a peach or plum. Plus, peach and plum pits contain cyanide, which is poisonous to both humans and dogs. The difference is humans know not to eat them. Dogs don't.  
Raw Eggs
There are two problems with giving your dog raw eggs. The first is the possibility of food poisoning from bacteria like Salmonella or E. coli. The second is that an enzyme in raw eggs interferes with the absorption of a particular B vitamin. This can cause skin problems as well as problems with your dog's coat if she's been eating them for a long time.
Raw Meat and Fish
Raw meat and raw fish, like raw eggs, can contain bacteria that causes food poisoning. In addition, certain kinds of fish such as salmon, trout, shad, or sturgeon can contain a parasite that causes "fish disease" or "salmon poisoning disease." If not treated, the disease can be fatal within 2 weeks. The first signs of illness are vomiting, fever, and big lymph nodes. Thoroughly cooking the fish will kill the parasite and protect your dog.
Salt
It's not a good idea to share salty foods like chips or pretzels with your dog. Eating too much salt can cause excessive thirst and urination and lead to sodium ion poisoning. Symptoms of too much salt include vomiting, diarrhea, depression, tremors, elevated body temperature, and seizures. It may even cause death.
Sugary Foods and Drinks
Too much sugar can do the same thing to dogs that it does to humans. It can lead to obesity, dental problems, and possibly the onset of diabetes.
Yeast Dough
Before it's baked, bread dough needs to rise. And, that's exactly what it would do in your dog's stomach if she ate it. As it swells inside, the dough can stretch a dog's abdomen and cause severe pain. In addition, when the yeast ferments the dough to make it rise, it makes alcohol that can lead to alcohol poisoning.
Your Medicine
Reaction to a drug prescribed for humans is the most common cause of poisoning in dogs. Just as you would do for your children, keep all medicines out of your dog's reach. And, never give your dog any over-the-counter medicine unless your vet tells you to. Ingredients such as acetaminophen or ibuprofen are often in pain relievers and cold medicine. And they can be deadly for your dog.
Kitchen Pantry: No Dogs Allowed
Many items found on kitchen shelves can harm your dog. For instance, baking powder and baking soda are both toxic. So are nutmeg and other spices. Keep food items high enough to be out of your dog's reach and keep pantry doors closed to help protect your dog from serious food-related illness.
If Your Dog Eats What It Shouldn't
Dogs explore with their mouth. And, no matter how cautious you are, it's possible your dog can find and swallow what it shouldn't. It's a smart idea to always keep the numbers of your local vet, the closest emergency clinic, and the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center --        (888) 426-4435 -- where you know you can find them in an emergency. And, if you think your dog has gotten into something toxic, call for emergency help at once.
What Dogs Can Eat
Ask your vet to recommend a quality dog food to be sure your dog has a healthy, well-balanced diet. A well-designed food gives your dog all the nutrients it needs for an active and healthy life. But that doesn't mean you can't sometimes give your four-legged friend human food as a special treat -- as long as you limit portions. Remember No human food at all for Service Dogs.

ODOR EDUCATION

“The best way I can explain how a dog breaks up a scent is by using the “Spaghetti” analogy. Dogs smell components, where as the handler smells items as a completed whole. Example: Someone is making Spaghetti, the K9 comes in and smells all the ingredients that are involved. The handler may be able to pick out a few potent ingredients, but still smells it as a completed whole.” Says Ron Barton, Phantom K9s Master Trainer/Instructor.

Barton has trained hundreds of dogs during his career as a Military Working Dog Trainer at Lackland air force base and ensured the safety of some of our Nation’s highest ranking officials with the help of his K9 partners.

“About 35 % of the dog’s brain is assigned to smell related operations, whereas a human’s brain is only assigned to 5% of smelling operations. The Dog’s nose actually extends from the nostrils to the back of its throat, housing about 300 million olfactory cells, about 50 more times as many as a human’s. Dogs can afford to assign certain areas of their smell memory cells for specific odors.” Barton explains, a human might be able to smell a teaspoon of sugar in a cup of coffee, but a dog could detect a teaspoon of sugar in 1,320,000 gallons (size of 2 Olympic swimming pools) of coffee.  “This is why we can “Imprint” the odors we want the dogs to find.

This is initially done by consistent training and reward, but it also must be maintained by quality proficiency training. As the dog advances in his/her recognition of the odor, so does their training; higher, deeper hides, more distracting odors, sounds and/or visual distractions.” States Barton, who in his 15 year career as a Military working dog trainer has turned out several of the Nation’s finest narcotic and bomb sniffing dogs.

“The mechanics of a dog’s nose is astounding in its self.” Barton explains when air enters a dog’s nose it splits into two separate paths – one for breathing and one for smelling. “When a dog exhales, the air going out exits through a series of slits on the sides of the dog’s nose. This means the outgoing air doesn’t interfere with the dog’s ability to analyze incoming odors; in fact, the outgoing air is even thought to help new odors enter. Even better, it allows dog’s to smell continuously over many breathing cycles.” During his career Barton has had the chance to work and study with many world renowned animal behaviorists and psychologists.

“Remember how cool it was when you were a kid, if someone could wiggle their nose without touching it?” Barton explains that in a dog’s case they are able to wiggle either nostril individually this also helps the dog locate and pinpoint the location of the odor.

But when it comes to scouting out a K9 partner there is one breed that Barton prefers for a certain standard of excellence.

Dogs don’t necessarily take first place in the animal kingdom. Elephants are a walking dictionary of odors. Rats and mice smell at least as well as dogs, and Jackals are just uncanny. But dogs beat them all in the “attitude” department.

No other animal is so well prepared to do what we want them to do. They want to please us! The best dogs for finding bombs in my opinion are German Shepherds (my personal preference), Belgian Malinois, and Labrador Retrievers. Not so much for any olfactory prowess as for their tireless work ethic. GS’s and BM’s are more “play reward”, and some will work to exhaustion for their reward. LR’s are more “food reward”, perpetually hungry. GS’s and BM’s will take constructive criticism. LR’s won’t – the stress of not measuring up takes the starch right out of them. What about Bloodhounds you might ask! True a Bloodhound will follow a trail as if being pulled by a string. But they are way down the scale in the intelligence department. Golden Retrievers can out smell everybody, but it’s not so easy getting them to buy into the system. They’re so smart that if they don’t want to do something, they just don’t. Some breeders are looking into “Glabs”, a mix of GR’s and LR’s, to get the best of both breeds.

Barton has handled and trained several different types of breeds, he has also experienced real world situations with his K9 Partners. We were fortunate

enough to have him share a few.

 “Before it was shut down several years ago, a defense department project called Dogs Nose was developed based on fluorescent polymers that supposedly was as effective as a dog’s nose. This technology was commercialized in a product called Fido X3, now owned by FLIR systems. Many of these units were sold for use in Afghanistan and Iraq. While in Iraq, the ones I witnessed in use were better off put on the range as targets.

The dogs were far superior to the machines.” Barton smiles upon remembering his German Shepherd K9 partner. “In 2004 my Narcotics detection dog, Bond responded on the far corner of an old wooden desk in the deputies office when I started bringing him in. When I mentioned my four legged partner’s obsession with the piece of office furniture, I was promptly told there was nothing in there. Bond had never given me a false indication before and I was not about to let him down by just walking away. When the drawer was pulled out, there all the way at the back was a Marijuana pipe with black residue from an old case.

Another incident was when My brother was working a bomb dog, Dowey in Iraq. One day during training he was told to clear an area under an overpass. There was lots of rubble and trash. As he was clearing the area with his K9 he was suddenly pulled over to an indent in the ground and his K9 sat. The trainer said “No! This is a blank search area.”(nothing was placed for the K9s to find).  My brother stood firm that in fact there was an article there because his partner said there is. So the trainer came over and did a visual search and found a block of C4that had been formed to look like just another piece of ruble. The nose Knows!  Trust in your Dog!

Another case I never forgot was when a Law Enforcement K9 team arrived at a two story house where it was reported their 3yr old daughter had went missing. When the K9 team had arrived several officers had already spent hours looking for the girl and found nothing. The officer asked for something the girl had worn that had not yet been washed. His K9 smelled the article of clothing, was given his command to find this person and within 15 minutes of their arrival to the house, the K9 found the little girl. She had fallen asleep under a pile of clothes inside a closet on the second floor of the house.

Dogs have the abilities to be our best asset, as they have proven over the years. We just have to be able to put forth the patience and compassion to teach them what we need……….”

Ron Barton continues today to train dogs for Law Enforcement, Military and Government operations. He has even donated some of his time and skills to helping save and rehabilitate German Shepherds with severe aggression issues and place them in the proper working homes and programs.

Barton’s current K9 partner in training is a 10 month old red and black German Shepherd named Dooley. Dooley was handpicked from Longworth Shepherds in Butler, Missouri. The young Shepherd’s parents were both German imports and out of Law Enforcement working stock.